This Tromso itinerary is unapologetically full. It’s 5 winter days of fjords, northern lights, Arctic wildlife, polar history and long, candlelit dinners, and yes, you will sleep well.well thought-out, with iconic stops, smart logistics, and just enough breathing room.

Exactly what to wear in Lapland at -15°C (5°F), plus the Lapland packing list that kept all fingers and dignity intact.

A no-nonsense guide to the best restaurants and cinnamon buns in Tromso, ranked in order of our favourites and places we’d happily book again.

Our honest take on luxury hotels in Tromso, including our stay at The Dock 69°39 by Scandic and the other 4-star hotels that nearly got our credit card.

The very best things to do in Tromso first, plus everything else worth your time (and kroner).