Beers on Train Tracks & DIY Bling in Hanoi, Vietnam

Xin chào from Hanoi, Vietnam!

If Ho Chi Minh felt like a bustling city, then Hanoi’s Old Quarter was an absolute fever dream. The streets were a non-stop blur of motorbikes zipping in every direction, fruit vendors weaving through traffic, and sidewalks that had long since abandoned their original purpose—commandeered instead by parked scooters or overflowing café seating. Pedestrians? Good luck.

Hanoi street chaos in full swing: scooters weaving, horns blaring, street food sizzling—just your average day in the city where traffic is a main attraction.

A Hanoi sidewalk doing what Hanoi does best—plastic chairs spilling into the street, locals feasting late into the night, and the vibe set permanently to buzzing.

It didn’t take us long to notice that many locals were wearing masks, and for good reason—the air quality was rough. Within hours, James developed a throat that felt like it had been sandblasted. Turns out, “Hanoi Throat” is a real thing, a rite of passage for foreigners unaccustomed to the city’s smog. The last time we encountered air this gnarly was over a decade ago in Lima, Peru. With so many things to do in Hanoi, GrabCar became our go-to to skip the long walks in the smog.

Beers on Train Tracks

As if the streets weren’t chaotic enough, Hanoi decided to up the ante with Train Street—a narrow alley lined with cafés… and, oh yeah, an active railway track running straight through it. The street had been closed off in the past due to some unfortunate tourist-related incidents, but since it had reopened, curiosity got the best of us.

On Hanoi’s famous Train Street—beers in hand, toes on the tracks, and zero trains in sight (for now). Cheers to living on the edge… literally.

Where else in the world can you sip a beer from a plastic chair while a cargo train barrels past, inches from your face? Naturally, we tossed a couple of bottle caps onto the rails for flattened souvenirs, because why not?

Here comes the train on Hanoi’s Train Street—locals and tourists tuck in, cameras up, heart rates spiking.

DIY Bling

James at the jeweler’s bench—turns out making a ring beats just picking one out.

Shal, mid-earring magic—because why buy filigree jewellery when you can make it sparkle yourself?

Serious concentration, tiny torch. Shal turning up the heat (literally) on her DIY bling.

When we weren’t dodging motorcycles or trains, we got our hands dirty with a centuries-old craft: Vietnamese silversmithing. The village of Dinh Cong has been producing intricate silver-work since the 6th century, but these days, younger generations are swapping hammers for office chairs. That’s why we were stoked to meet young silversmiths including a 20-year-old master of filigree, one of the few still keeping the tradition alive. What took Shal an hour to craft, he whipped up in 10 minutes flat—humbling, to say the least.

Water Puppetry

A splash of culture! The Thang Long Water Puppet Show—where puppets take the plunge.

Speaking of art, we caught a Thang Long water puppet show, a unique Vietnamese tradition featuring wooden puppets gliding across a water stage to the tune of live folk music. It was part play, part magic trick, and somehow, we lucked into front-row seats—close enough to appreciate the details, but thankfully not in the splash zone.

Where Scholars Were the Rockstars

James getting a dose of wisdom at Confucius' altar at the Temple of Literature.

Of all the temples we visited, our favourite was the Temple of Literature—dedicated to Confucius and the pursuit of knowledge. Back in the day, students weren’t just students; they were elites, selected through a ruthless exam you had to prepare for yourself before being formally admitted to study (to take imperial exams). The first exam was held in 1075 and if you were hoping to major in the arts? Forget it—musicians and actors need not apply.

Shal standing tall among the Stelae of Doctors because knowledge is power.

Beyond its historical prestige, the Temple of Literature is also home to the Stelae of Doctors—a collection of 82 stone slabs engraved with the names of scholars who passed the imperial exams. Rubbing the head of the stone turtles beneath these stelae is said to bring academic luck, a tradition still going strong among students today.

Ho Chi Minh: Vietnam’s Eternal “Uncle”

James on the steps of Uncle Ho’s Mausoleum—getting inside to see his tomb requires an early wake-up and leaving everything behind (seriously, security’s no joke). We passed this time!

No visit to Hanoi would be complete without learning more about Ho Chi Minh, the face of Vietnam’s fight for independence in the French and American (Vietnam) Wars. His complex of monuments, including his mausoleum, museum, and stilt house, serves as both a historical site and a place of deep reverence. Locals affectionately call him Uncle Ho, a nickname intended to reflect his enduring image as a humble, fatherly leader who led Vietnam through its most transformative years.

Next up: Our last leg of the trip! Karst-studded Ha Long Bay by yacht.

Xoxo

Shal & James

P.S. Fancy replicating our adventure? Check out our post about Things to Do in Hanoi (includes 3 day Hanoi itinerary), and nab our full 3 Week Vietnam Itinerary (includes destination guide and travel tips).