Things to Do in Ninh Binh
- Shal & James
- May 8
- 10 min read
Updated: May 24
Uncover the best things to do in Ninh Binh—from rowing through Trang An’s limestone karsts to climbing ancient pagodas and meeting rescued bears. This playful, honest guide shares what’s worth your time (and what’s not) in Vietnam’s so-called “Ha Long Bay on land.”
Contents
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We always research, road-test, and report back with the good, the great, and the “meh.” If we link it, we’ve tried it (or nearly booked it) – and we’ll always be brutally honest, commission or not.
Day 1: Arrival & Hoa Lu' Old Town
Getting Here
If you're following our 3-week Vietnam itinerary, hop in a private car (we had a great ride with Hanoi VIP Transfer) for the 4-hour journey from Avana Retreat to Tam Coc, Ninh Binh. Prefer to keep it short and sweet? Ninh Binh makes an easy 2-hour day trip from Hanoi.
Where to Stay
The two main bases for exploring Ninh Binh are Tam Coc and Trang An. After failing to uncover a luxe gem (trust us, we tried), we went with Tam Coc for one reason: convenience. Being within walking distance to town sounded good... until we got there.
We booked the Ninh Binh Hidden Charm Hotel & Resort (we paid £95 pn / ~$125 pn) the one hotel that looked halfway “nice." It's a glaring white tower that managed to channel serious ’70s retirement home energy, despite being built in the last decade. Retro-chic? Not quite. The bed, thankfully, was comfy enough, but the pillows were lumpy, and breakfast? It was included in the room rate, but let’s just say we’d rather forget.
Our verdict? If you find a better place to stay—especially in Trang An—snap it up. Your neck (and taste buds) will thank you.
Getting Around
Unless you drove, booked a tour, or recently mastered teleportation, getting around Ninh Binh comes down to two options: rent a bike or call a car. Most backpackers go for bikes—Tam Coc’s full of ‘em, and rentals are cheap (or free if you’re staying 3+ nights at Ninh Binh Hidden Charm Hotel & Resort).
Cycling through misty rice fields with limestone karsts poking the sky sounded dreamy... but we visited during peak “grey, soggy England” weather, and dodging traffic on wet roads sans helmets? Hard pass.
So we GrabCar’d our way around instead—rare, but brilliant. Total freedom to dodge the rain and linger (or bail) at sights as we pleased.
Only hiccup? Bai Dinh Pagoda. None of the Grab drivers wanted to cough up the parking lot entry fee just to pick us up, so we couldn’t book one. Luckily, a fleet of regular taxis was already waiting. They quoted higher prices at first, but they easily agreed to GrabCar rates.
Honestly, the local taxi drivers were so eager, one even waited hours outside the bear sanctuary just to secure our return trip.
Explore Hoa Lu Old Town
Free
Once the capital of Vietnam in the 10th and 11th centuries, Hoa Lu’s Old Town is where ancient dynasties ruled, royal drama unfolded, and stone temples (yes, even the new builds) still whisper tales of emperors past.
While there’s not a ton to see in Hoa Lu’s Old Town, the “walking street” oozes charm—and it's totally worth a wander especially at dusk. Don’t miss the climb up to the Ky Lan Mountain Shrine, built right into the rocky outcrop of Ky Lan Mountain (a petite limestone karst nestled beside the lake and walking street).
At the top, you’ll score panoramic views over the old town and the glowing temples below—especially the beautifully lit Bac (Silver) Pagoda at the foot of Ky Lan Mountain and Tu An Tower which shimmers like a lantern in the middle of Ky Lan Lake. It’s become the unofficial postcard shot of Hoa Lu, and yes, it’s as photogenic as it sounds.
While the area looked like a dreamy spot for dinner under twinkly lights, none of the restaurants exactly dazzled on Google—so we called a GrabCar and hightailed it back to Tam Coc.
What's for Dinner? Tam Coc Kitchen
Funnily enough, Tam Coc wasn’t exactly a foodie paradise either. After some serious Googling (and a few raised eyebrows), the only spot with consistently glowing reviews was Tam Coc Kitchen—a laid-back, family-run joint with plenty of seating, both indoors and out.
To our surprise, the food was genuinely solid. And—miracle of miracles—it was one of the only places in Vietnam where we could get actual chicken breasts. So our nightly ritual quickly became a plate of chicken stir-fried with pineapple and a steaming bowl of beef pho. When the food’s that good and the alternatives are meh, why mess with success? Just remember it's cash only!
No need for dinner reservations here (a welcome change from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi) and a tasty two-course dinner for two clocked in at just ~£10 / $13. Best of all? Tam Coc Kitchen was just a few minutes’ walk from our hotel—one of the hotel's only redeeming qualities, to be honest. At least we didn’t have to go far to eat our feelings in pho.
Day 2: Buddhas & Bears
Gigantic Buddhas at Bai Dinh Pagoda
Daily 6 AM - 9 PM (electric buggy only runs until 6 PM)
40,000 VND (~£1 / $1) [cash] Car park entry fee
30,000 VND (~90p / 90¢) [cash] Per electric buggy ride
50,000 VND (~£1.50 / $2) [cash] Bao Thap (stupa tower) entry
Bai Dinh Pagoda is Southeast Asia's largest Buddhist complex and home to some of the region’s most colossal Buddha statues. Bai Dinh isn’t just enormous—it’s ancient. The original pagoda dates back to 1121, meaning monks have been meditating, chanting, and dodging tourists here for almost a thousand years.
The walk from the car park entrance to the ticket office is absurdly long, so pay the 40,000 VND fee so your driver can drop you right at the ticket gates. Worth every dong.
The ticket office is a bit of a zoo—and it's cash only. While queuing, a staff member pitched us on an upgraded ticket with buggy rides between sights, making it sound essential. It’s not. Unless you have mobility issues, you only need the buggy to get from the ticket office to the Internal Three Gates and back. We paid extra and got carted to random temples like it was Buddhist roulette. Don’t get upsold.
We spent about four hours exploring (not including lunch—unless you count protein bars eaten mid-stride). You could easily spend more or less time depending on your pace. Apparently, you can request a tour guide for an extra 300,000–500,000 VND. In hindsight, that may have been worth it. We relied on Perplexity AI to be our makeshift guide.
Four Paws Ninh Binh Bear Sanctuary
Daily 9 AM - 5 PM
250,000 VND pp (~£7 / $9) for the "Immerse Package"
Four Paws Ninh Binh is a sanctuary rescuing bears from the horrors of bile farming—an awful practice still happening today despite government bans and modern alternatives.
We booked the "Immerse Package" (by appointment only). To arrange it, email Trang Nguyen (trang.nguyen@four-paws.org). You’ll pay on arrival—yes, they take credit cards and no, there’s no fee.
Visit around 1 PM or 4 PM, about 20 minutes after feeding time, when the bears come out to forage. The Sky Walk and guided tour give the best views.
Day 3: Jaw-Dropping Landscapes
Trang An
Daily 7 AM - 4 PM
250,000 VND pp (~£7 / $9)
Trang An is the must-see spot in Ninh Binh—and for good reason. With UNESCO-listed karsts that rival Ha Long Bay, it's a jaw-dropping landscape you won’t forget. Take a 3-hour rowboat tour (there are 1,500 boats, so get ready to share the views). When you buy your ticket (which you can do with a credit card), you’ll get a map of four routes—we went with route 3 because it's the most scenic, though all routes are crowded. You’ll be paired with another couple unless you’re buying tickets to get the entire boat to yourself (good luck with that during peak times!).
You’ll need to board last to claim those coveted seats at the front of the boat, but you can swap seats halfway through (which worked for us, especially since the best scenery comes later). You’ll stop at temples along the way, and yes, there are toilets—but no toilet paper, soap, or dryers, so pack accordingly.
There are spare oars if you get the urge to row, but the women who run the boats have it down to an art—most of the “helpers” seemed to make things worse! And don’t forget to tip your rower—we tipped 100,000 VND (~£3 / $4).
Bich Dong Pagoda
Daily 7:30 AM - 4:30 PM
Free
Bich Dong Pagoda is a serene, hidden gem tucked into the limestone hills of Ninh Binh, though it’s far from quiet these days with plenty of tourists flocking to its steps. This 15th-century complex has a rich history, having served as a place of worship and reflection for centuries. Fun fact: the pagoda is built into the cliffs, so you’ll get a mini workout climbing to the top for stunning panoramic views. It’s one of those spots where the beauty still manages to shine through the crowds.
Mua Cave
Daily 6 AM - 5 PM
10,000 VND pp (~30p / 40¢) [cash]
Down a sleepy road between rice paddies, Mua Cave isn't overly impressive, but the views from the peak are worth the climb. A stone staircase near the cave entrance zigzags up nearly 500 steps to an altar for Quan Am, the Goddess of Mercy.
Word on the street is that the best time to visit Mua Cave is early morning before the tour buses arrive, but we visited late afternoon and the crowds had thinned. You'll pass through Hang Mua Tourist Village to reach the entry, perfect for a post-hike coconut or cold beer.
If you're using GrabCar to get to Mua Cave, input "Hang Mua Tourist Village" into the app. That's as close as you can get by car to the entrance.
Odds, Ends & Other Adventures
Ninh Binh in a Day? Totally Doable from Hanoi!
While Hanoi VIP Transfer would likely be thrilled to handle your private day trip to Ninh Binh, if you're after a guide, we recommend the VIP tour option (~£99 / $130 pp; max 9 people) of this highly-rated small group tour to Mua Cave, Bai Dinh Pagoda, and Trang An—it's the one we’d have booked ourselves if we hadn’t decided to stay over for a deeper dive into all the things to do in Ninh Binh.
Behind the Itinerary: Our Ninh Binh Adventure
The itinerary’s just the start — Ninh Binh was a true adventure, from the surprising mix of stunning landscapes to the unexpected vibe of Tam Coc and unpredictable weather. Curious about what it was really like? Check out our travel diary here.
